Choosing a SUP Paddle

Paddles for any craft are a very personal choice. They all provide propulsion and stability, but come in hundreds of combinations of shapes, sizes and materials (not to mention prices!). The choice can be daunting, so we’re going to break down the parts and features of a SUP paddle to help you choose the best one for you.

Which paddle should I take today?

Which paddle should I take today?

Length

Let’s begin with the most basic feature of a paddle - how long should it be? A paddler may choose a paddle anywhere from 2” shorter to 12” longer than your height based on the type of paddling you are doing. Below are some common lengths of paddles based on how you paddle!

  • Casual Paddling/Distance Touring - Add 8-10” to your height

  • Open-water/Flat-water Racing; Casual/Touring on shallow rivers - Add 6-8” to your height

  • Whitewater/Surf - Add -2” - 6” to your height

You’ll find that your preferences may change over time. If you are buying your first paddle, or you are looking for one paddle to do everything, you should buy an adjustable length paddle. Adjustable length paddles are convenient, but that convenience comes at the cost of added weight and a slightly higher price.

Materials - Paddle Shafts

What materials a manufacturer uses to make their paddle will make a big difference in how that paddle performs. Not only will the type of material matter, but also how that material is used and where. For instance, the orientation and layering of carbon fibers may make a paddle shaft stiffer for more power transfer, or flexible for a softer catch and less stress on your shoulders.

  • Carbon Fiber - Lightweight, strong, can be stiff or flexible, $$$

  • Fiberglass - Medium weight, strong, can be stiff or flexible, $$

  • Aluminum - Heavy, can dent/bend out of shape, little variability in stiffness, $

Just like how Carbon Fiber and Fiberglass can be created to have different amounts of flex, they can also be created for different weights. Usually this is reflected in the price. A very lightweight carbon fiber paddle may cost $400 or more, but a heavy carbon fiber paddle may be as little as $100 and weigh twice as much.

Materials - Paddle Blades

Paddle blades can be made out of many of the same materials as the paddle shaft, and more, and will have just as big of an impact on performance as your choice of paddle shaft.

  • Carbon Fiber - Lightweight, stiff, may be solid or foam core, thin paddle edges have low durability, $$$

  • Fiberglass - Medium weight, stiff, may be solid or foam core, typically more durable than carbon fiber, $$

  • Nylon - Heavy, flexible, most durable, may be wrapped around carbon or fiberglass cores $

Nylon blades and nylon-reinforced blades are very durable, but also very heavy. Because they are at the end of the paddle, extra weight here is exaggerated as you move the paddle with each stoke.

Other Materials

You can also find paddles and paddle blades made out of other materials like wood (solid or laminated) and bamboo. These paddles are typically made and chosen purely for aesthetic reasons. They can be made to be stiff or flexible, coated with fiberglass for durability (or just varnished for weight savings), or paired with other materials for reinforcement or one material for the shaft and another for the blade.


The Devil is in the Details…

Now that you’ve decided how long your paddle needs to be and what materials it should be made of it’s time to pick all of the other features of your ideal paddle.


Grips

Starting at the top, most SUP paddles come with one of two types of grips: T-Grips and Palm Grips.

T-Grip on the left, Palm Grip on the right

T-Grip on the left, Palm Grip on the right

T-Grips are typically thinner and shorter to allow your fingers to wrap completely underneath the grip. They are most commonly found in whitewater paddles where it is critical to maintain your grip and orientation on the paddle. They may be more cylindrical overall, or more squared-off.

Palm Grips are typically thicker and taller. They are rounded to fit comfortably in your palm and have a deep groove carved in the front to give your fingers a place to rest. Some palm grips go to an extreme are basically a sphere on top of the paddle. This is very uncommon, though.

Blade Shape and Size

The shape of your blade changes how it will feel at different points during your paddle stroke. When we talk about blade shapes we refer to them as low-aspect or high-aspect blades. Low-aspect blades are more tear-drop shaped and high-aspect blades are more rectangular. They each have their advantages and disadvantages.

A large size, high-aspect, rectangular paddle blade on the left; A medium size, low-aspect, tear-drop paddle blade on the right.

A large size, high-aspect, rectangular paddle blade on the left; A medium size, low-aspect, tear-drop paddle blade on the right.

Low-aspect paddle blades are ideal for lower-cadence paddling. They provide maximum support and power during the first part of your paddle stroke as the bottom of the paddle enters the water, but then have an abrupt change in power as the paddle blade tapers.

High-aspect paddle blades are ideal for higher-cadence paddling. They provide consistent support and power throughout the power stroke, but require the whole paddle blade to enter the water to gain maximum power. This also allows the user to adjust how much power they are outputting by reducing how deeply they paddle.

Low-aspect blades are better for low-cadence casual paddling, touring, and surfing (where you want as much power as possible in the tip of the blade).

High-aspect blades are better for racing and whitewater where a fast cadence and consistent feel are critical.

Blade sizes also greatly impact how they perform. Larger paddle blades (95 sq in+) produce large amounts of power in a single, slower stroke. These paddles are great for when you need maximum acceleration or direction change for a single stroke, but can be very tiring to use over long periods of time. Smaller blade sizes allow for a faster paddle cadence and less strain on the body, making them better for use over longer periods of time.

Blade Offset/Angle

Blade offset, or Blade Angle refers to how much the paddle blade deviates from the paddle shaft.

The paddle in the foreground has a 10° blade offset. The paddle in the background has a 0° blade offset.

The paddle in the foreground has a 10° blade offset. The paddle in the background has a 0° blade offset.

A paddle blade with a higher offset will stay vertical longer throughout your stroke, particularly in the first part of your stroke, providing more power and stability. Higher off-set paddles (8-12°) are better for racing and touring whereas lower offset paddles (0-8°) are better for surfing and whitewater as they will have a more equal feel when bracing with the back-side of the paddle blade. For casual paddling, anywhere from 6-10° of offset is normal. Some paddles use more of a scoop-shaped blade with less offset. These paddles are designed for low-cadence casual paddling, and have their own set of issues (poor bracing, wobble, and lifting water).

Our General Recommendation

That is a lot to consider! So, what do we typically recommend to people when we are asked “What paddle should I buy?” For the average user here in New Mexico, our paddle of choice is the NRS Rush. It is a fiberglass shaft/fiberglass blade, adjustable-length paddle with a comfortable palm grip, largish blade that is a good balance between a high- and low-aspect ratio, with a 10° offset. You can put down some serious power with it, use a variety of cadences and have a stable and consistent feel. It’s also a great value with an MSRP of $169.95.

If you have more questions about paddles, choosing a paddle, or need to buy a paddle - drop us a line! 505-717-2526

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